The United Nations recently described the situation as "catastrophic".
Zambia is the fifth most afflicted country, with 22 per cent of its adults infected.
This was no ordinary dancing she was learning but endless sexual techniques for the gratification of her husband."The woman is there to take care of her husband and that is the main message we give them," said Mrs Bwalya.
Well, his next wife died and then he had a girlfriend and she died and then he married again and his new wife is going crazy."Examples tumble out of those who, ignoring cleansing, are said to have left death and madness in their wake.
Until that moment her life had been on hold: if a woman remarries before she is cleansed, the ghost will enter her new husband, driving him mad.
On the other side of town, Headman Kabosha explains the importance of sexual cleansing.
It is dawn on Lake Mweru, on the Zambian-Congolese border, and the Love Boat is returning to shore.
Emblazoned with contraceptive advertisements, it has been out all night, offering condoms to fishermen, and advice about HIV.